Adieu to Ireland

The long delayed conclusion to my Ireland vacation:

Day 6- Cork

So far, Cork is unimpressive. It's a very industrial city and lacking the "brightness" of Galway. We try to visit the Butter Museum but it doesn't open until 10 AM. Hmmm... Wait around half an hour or get a move on to Dublin? 

Our B&B suggested we stop at the Rock of Cashel- an ancient castle and cathedral ruin. Once it was the seat of the ancient kings of Ireland. Now, this surprisingly well preserved ruin hosts tours most of the year. It's amazing to see. Cashel is a gem in the center of the country. We had a lovely lunch at Ladyswell along the main road and within walking distance of the ruin. I had the most delicious Mediterranean panini (with cole slaw of course) and my sister had the seafood chowder. I'm not sure how "chowdery" it was, but she said it was delicious.  

The rest of the trip North was uneventful. One thing that struck me odd was the radio. Irish radio is horrid. I will never complain about the lack of selection here for as long as I live. We literally heard the same 6 songs all week long. A sampling of the songs sponsoring our vacation:

- Enrique Iglesias "Tonight (I'm Loving You)- Of course, we sang the CD version "Tonight (I'm Fucking You) and this song has haunted me ever since we returned. I can't turn around without hearing it and when I do I must sing along. I even sang it for Suicide Karaoke. God, I love that song. Oh Enrique, when'd you get so dirty? It's even spawned a new verb "to iglesias", meaning to have sex. As in: You are totally getting iglesiased tonight.

- Jessie J "Money"- She hasn't really broken in the states yet, but I think her album is only just coming out. She was just in the last issue of Entertainment Weekly or Vogue or something and I saw her on Graham Norton not too long ago. I wasn't impressed, but now I feel I must inflict this song on everyone.

- Some techno/dance song that wanted to "take us higher off the ground". No idea.

- Bruno Marz "Grenade"- Sounds like the guy needs to get some self esteem.

- Adele "Rolling in the Deep"/"Someone Like You"- I fully admit to buying this album the other day. I can't escape it. She sounds amazing and I find her hilarious. Did you see her on "Chelsea Lately"? I tried to link to it, but my computer's acting up. Youtube it- trust me.

Now in Dublin, we're hunting for our next B&B which is located on Dublin Bay. It's a bit far out of the city but my main concern was getting to the car rental and airport on time. Regardless, there's a bus stop right across the street so we can leave the car it took me FOREVER to parallel park on the busy road. Our original B&B had plumbing issues that were as yet unresolved, but he booked us into another one a few doors down. The Sea Breeze is run by the tiniest old lady I've ever seen. How does she get up the stairs? Who changes the linen? These are questions probably best not to ask. Our room did have an excellent view of the bay but the room itself may have been the worst so far. Not bad, so much as old and out dated in more of a Salvation Army sense than an antique one.

After the required nap, we take the bus (1.80 euro) to the city center, or close enough really. All I want at this point is Indian food. I've been craving it something fierce all week. Problem is, we left all maps etc. in the room. I also still cannot find my camera charger. What the heck fire happened to it?! Wandering the streets of Temple Bar, in the rain, there is a beacon ahead in the form of a human directional. He is pointing to Shan Indian restaurant. God bless you sir. Now, get me a samosa! It's after 8 PM but there is only a large party in the dining room. I get a bit nervous but soon others arrive. I guess this is the place to go late.

It takes a while to get our food considering no one else is in the restaurant, but once it comes I don't really care. The samosa is flavorful and just a bit spicy. I have to Aloo Mutter (potatoes and peas) and my sister has the Saag Paneer (homemade cheese in spinach). I asked for mine spicy but that's not how it comes. Oh well... The assortment of chutney's is also very different from what I'm used to- slightly sweet lemon preserve, pickled onions, and something containing tamarind. Still, it was pretty good and just over 10 euros each.

We try for a pint at The Quay since we liked the one in Galway so much, but it is well over the legal limit of patrons. My stupid umbrella gets caught in several peoples jackets. It was also very expensive. We skedaddled back across the river to find someplace more cozy and closer to where we needed to pick up the bus home. Thankfully, the drizzle has finally let up. I can't remember the name of the bar we ended up at! It was fun with two levels. We almost went into this place next door called... Poets Corner? Poet Laureate? Something about literature. Before we know it though, it's time to catch the bus back before it stops running and start packing for Amsterdam. We're planning to leave our large bags at the airport, so stuffing all essentials into our carry on's is a chore. I'm starting to run low on funds.

I've eaten cole slaw at almost every meal in Ireland. People seem obsessed with it. Is this a new transport from abroad? I was even asked if I already knew I liked it before they would serve it to me. So cute. "Honey, I'm from Texas. We eat this by the bucket full!" For the most part, cole slaw here has a lot of mayonnaise. It was nice at first, I'm not used to real mayo, but eventually I just wanted to drain out much of it. A soft hand in cole slaw is often best I think. I've also lost count on the number of eggs I've eaten. Every breakfast and then on accident other times (stupid yummy quiche). If I never see another egg....

Next: This is the end or Hello Amsterdam!

Viva Dublin

Day Two- Dublin

Always take a Xanax on the plane if one is offered to you. Even if you think to yourself, "I'm really tired. Sleeping will be no problem!" You are wrong. So, we arrive in Dublin tired and hungry. The customs line moves quickly and I refrain from writing my nationality as "white" like a friend of mine did on about as little sleep. Instead, just thinking about it sends me into giggles.

When buying a package vacation deal, it's important to read the fine print and ask questions. Picking up our rental car was an experience. I expected to pay a bit more- I knew there was a local tax that was not included in the deal- but I had no idea how much more. As foreign drivers we had to buy supplemental insurance, of which there are two choices: You can purchase the accident insurance which is 1600 euro UP FRONT, refundable to you later; or you can pay 15 euro a day for full coverage against pretty much anything. I almost started crying. She gives us the daily rate at 12 euro and we have to take it. Grrr... We also decide to get the GPS since our maps are crap (more on that later as well) and the rental agent takes pity on us again and gives it to me for 4 euro instead of 10 a day. Double Grrr. Even better, it won't stay on it's mount so my sister has to hold it the whole time. Not helpful.

Driving on the left isn't so bad except it ended up taking me two days to get comfortable with my mirrors. I keep turning on the windshield whippers instead of my turn signal. Dublin roads weren't the worst we drove but they were far from the best. Street signs, if you're lucky enough to even have them, are located on the sides of buildings. Problem is, they were probably put up in the 20s and haven't been changed since. Most are impossible to read and the English names seem much smaller than the Irish. How do you find anything when the houses don't list numbers? Thank god for GPS and our B&B booklet giving us coordinates for each!

We are WAY too early to check into our B&B so we head into the city. My sister wants to visit a couple museums and I'm all about the Guinness. More complications- parking. There are a bunch of car parks, but the prices vary so significantly its hard to know when you're getting a good deal or when you're being gouged. Frustrated and about to stab the GPS, I just pull into the next car park we find. I've already backed out of two of them and one was on a "street" so narrow, the guy loading beer into his bar started laughing at us. When we leave, the 6-hour fare was about 22 euro- GASP!

Dublin is a maze unto itself. There doesn't appear to be any logical grid system or any system in place. Streets change name while still posting the original name. You can't do that! We get lost, a lot. Finally make it to Trinity College. Other than Guinness, all I wanted to do in Dublin was see the Book of Kells. The college is gorgeous and the book very interesting. It's amazing how detailed and old it is. Such beautiful artwork. Afterward, we head by Dublin Castle to the Chester Beatty Library. It houses some of the oldest books and art, and has been named one of Europe's Best Museums. Even better, it's free! The main exhibit was of the Shahnama, a 60,000 verse epic poem over 1000 years old! The art work is amazing and many of the stories can be traced forward to our own mythology and fairy tales. One in particular is just like Rapunzel. The Library also houses ancient religious works from around the world. Very interesting.

Checking our map (thanks Tourism Centre!), we decide to walk to the Guinness Storehouse. In true Dublin fashion, most of the signs have been blown or knocked off course so you're never quite sure you're going the right direction. We finally find it and have an amazing time. It is evident why it is the #1 tourist destination in Dublin. The Storehouse takes you on a 7 floor journey through the making and history of Guinness, ending in a free pint in the Gravity Bar with 360 degree views of Dublin. Amazing. The pint leaves me energized and ready to head for lunch!

Our must stop lunch location is Cornucopia, a vegetarian restaurant in the heart of the city. The prices freaked me out a bit (everything looks normal until you factor in the exchange rate), but there was enough food for two meals- score! I had the grilled leek and polenta cake with garlic new potato salad (with hazelnuts! Genius!) and coleslaw. Of the many coleslaws I ate, I think this was my favorite. It might also be that it was my first and they are heavy on the mayo in Ireland. After a few days, all you want to see is some dry cabbage.

Finally, it's time to check into our B&B.  Muckross House in Drumcondra is convenient to the city center and the airport. Our host was lovely and suggested some pubs around the corner for later. We passed out for a few hours, ate left overs, then headed in the direction of beer. Travel Tip #2: Do not tip waitstaff. They make a decent wage and it confuses them. Plus, then you're out of a few euro you could have used to buy another half pint. It's super cold at night here too. About 30 F in the day but the wind picks up at night. I'm thankful I packed both a long and short winter coat. We head back to the B&B and pass out again. Tomorrow is a long day of driving.

Next: Newgrange and Galway