Happy St. Patrick's Day

Day Four- Cliffs of Moher and Every Body's Irish

**This is Bunratty Castle, but you can't throw a rock without hitting a bit of castle or a bit of ruin. Another car game: Yelling out "Bit of castle!" or "Bit of ruin!" We also saw a bit of Castle with row houses built off of it. Must be easy giving directions: Just go to the bit of castle and count down 4 doors.**

The sun is shining when we leave and we're hoping for another slightly warm day as we head south to the Cliffs of Moher. The roads from Galway through The Burren are tough to say the least. Most are barely wider than one American lane and the speed limits 100 km (about 70 mph). What drunkard came up with that? There is a lot of deep inhales and held breath as we pass cars barreling towards us. The drive is beautiful though. Even the seriously dangerous curves are no match for how we're feeling. At least most of these roads are paved, right?

It's overcast once we get up the cliffs (214m or about 702 ft) and the wind is trying to push us off the edge. Still, it is a beautiful sight. You can see the passage of time in the striations of the cliff face. There is a bit of a museum attached, mostly talking about climate change and wildlife but it's interesting. The visitors center boasts it's Green initiatives which I full support. Our geek-dom highlight at the end is the ridge where parts of "The Princess Bride" were films. As you wish!!!

We get more interesting directions to the famous Dolman further into The Burren. Here, an estimated 300 bodies (all ash- the Celts cremated) were found buried in the tomb. Now, it just hangs out and we took a lot of pictures. Heading back down the cliffs, the sun comes back out and it warms up a bit. We stop in Ballyvaughan at The Soda Parlor for lunch. Really yummy crepes and milkshakes. After a quick nap at home, we're off to celebrate the most famous Englishman in Ireland.

There are people everywhere. If you live in a major city, it looks the same. College kids stumbling down the street, spilling beer on themselves and others. People taking their glass outside and dropping it, even though every bar offers plastic cups. It's loud and cold and fun. Our first stop was The King's Head. On any other night I think it could have been a nice place to hang out, but tonight it was full of college kids and we're just a bit too old for that. We grab a slice of amazing pizza then head to The Front Door (also in the guidebook, FYI). Here was more our crowd. It was packed to the gills, but after grabbing a Smithwicks for me and a Bulmers for my sister, we found a smoking patio on the 2nd floor. New Yorkers will recognize this patio as nothing more than a pass through to another building, but it has been re-appropriated for use with the bar.

Lesson I already knew but learned again from a drunk Irish girl: Guys are full of shite and lie.

For some reason, many people we've met along the way so far have thought we were Australian. They also commend us on waiting to visit until after Obama was elected, as our reception would not have been so nice. You're welcome America.

We meet some native Dublinites out showing their Canadian friend around and have some savage craic (sounds like crack- i.e. a really good time and good conversation). I totally want to bring this word back to the states. I love it!

Sadly, we are back at the B&B and getting ready for bed at 11:45. This has already been a lot of driving, and we're back at it again tomorrow. I really loved Galway and would come back for a few more days again. We never got out to the Aran Islands, and there is some beautiful country side and attractions North of the city. I'll keep my fingers crossed I have the opportunity again.

Next: Good Roads and Kissing the Stone

Sheep!

Day Three- Newgrange

**Everywhere we turn, there are sheep. It's become a game. We randomly yell out "Sheep!" or "Cow!" or "Baby Sheep!", as if we've never seen these animals before in our life. It's ridiculous and so much fun. **

Just North of Dublin is one of the oldest ancient relics still standing. Older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids. The tombs at Newgrange, Knowth, and Dowth are something everyone should see before they die. Just the thought that Stone Age man made these amazing and precise astrological artifacts is mind blowing. Even more, the landscape is breathtaking. It should go without saying that we get lost. Let me back up a bit for a second.

There is a saying amongst my circle of friends as well as my family, "Never doubt me". I always speak the truth and only speak what I know to be the truth. Am I sometimes wrong? Sure, who isn't. But, 9 times out of 10 I'm right. So, even though the street we're on hasn't listed a sign in miles I am still right in thinking we're going the right way. Getting places is interesting with two opposing personalities, lets just leave it at that.

When we finally make it to Brú na Bóinne (the visitors center). Our tour guide is amazing. He has a very dry humor we found delightful. You climb 2m up into the tomb and he places us around like human tetris in the chamber. Once arranged, he tells us how during the Winter Solstice, at dawn; the sun hits the entrance to the tomb and illuminates the interior like fire. There is a demonstration, hence our tetris organizing, played out with a light bulb. I actually get goosebumps. I love this place. Have you ever just felt connected to something? Sometimes its something you never thought you would connect with. Maybe it's a piece of your heritage. Whatever it is, I hope it happens for each of you at least once. I didn't want to leave. My sister asked if she could lie down in the tomb to see out the keystone set above the door. If we weren't afraid to get dirty (not us!), sure. YEA!!! I believed him when he said our feet were now at level with our head outside, but when you lay down and see little heads bobbing past, through a corridor that your brain tells you you should not be able to see out of, it's amazing. I only wish we could have taken pictures.

Ireland is not known for its motorways. There are a few, mostly from Dublin to Belfast, Dublin to Cork, and Dublin to nowhere. It's the last one we're on while trying to get to Galway. Unfortunately, it's partially closed and we get lost in Athelone. To make matters worse, we're hungry. Thanks to the fine folks at Leahy's Grocery in Navan we find our way around the construction. Truly lovely people, who invited us into their office to print and draw out better maps for us. Damn GPS! We are on the highlighted route! We come to find later, that Athelone is the apparent joke of the country- all those who live in the interior are "un-sound". this becomes a theme for the trip.

Finally get to Galway. We're staying in Salthill just outside the city center and near the water. The Ard Mhuire B&B is to be our home base for two days and the room and proprietor are both lovely. Had it been warmer, we could have walked to the Bay. We head into "downtown" Salthill for dinner at The Oslo, a nice micro-brewery and restaurant along the Bay. I had the lentil burger with fries and their house ale- yummy! Afterward, we head into Galway to the bar district and stop at The Quays which I found out later is a bit famous and in all the guidebooks. You wouldn't know it going in though which was nice. What I mean to say is, it was busy but proportionately more local than tourist. We met some nice gentlemen from Sligo who told us all about the "un-sound" people of the interior and to avoid Limerick, aka Stab City. Coming from Murderville myself, I wasn't worried; but better safe than sorry. Once the live music started (7 nights a week), the place got really packed and we left to crash back at the B&B.

Tomorrow: Princess Bride and St. Pat's